The Perfect Quilt Coat: a review of modern quilt coat patterns

As September shortens and October approaches, every quilter’s social media begins to fill with photos of gorgeous quilt coats. Modern, traditional, structured, drapey, minimal, maximal, new, upcycled, the possibilities are endless, and all are enviable. It causes one to think, “I’m a quilter. I should be able to make one of those!” So you gather your courage, select a sacrificial quilt, and… pick a coat pattern? But which one?? There are so many! They all look great in photos, but would they look the same on you? I’ve been in your quilty shoes, and went searching high and low for a comprehensive review of quilt coat patterns. There were some moderately helpful articles, but none provided an example of one person modeling different coat designs. Well, “necessity is the mother of invention,” so I decided to create my own list. I selected three modern coat patterns to test in hopes of finding the perfect pattern and passing on the experiences to the next quilter in need.

My ideals for a quilt coat: a modern cut, relaxed fit, but not bulky, mid-length, large pockets, and a hood. For reference, I am 5’ 10” and generally a medium in most clothes.

The hunt for patterns matching these criteria began, and eventually three patterns— NewLook 6586, Nova Coat by Papercut patterns, and Chiono Jacket by Sewillow—emerged as the front-runners. Each pattern offered something slightly different. NewLook 6585 had 3 length options, a hood, and draped silhouette; the Nova Coat was a modern cut with large pockets and relaxed fit; Chiono Jacket was also a modern cut, good length, and relaxed fit without the bulk.

After pattern selection comes the most important step of the quilt coat process: TEST THE PATTERN!!!

If you take nothing else from this post, please, Please, PLEASE — before cutting a beloved quilt to pieces, you must test to your jacket pattern to verify size and cut. This post provides some help by reviewing the designs, but every body is different, and it is impossible to know how a coat will fit until you try it on. Many suggest making a muslin version, but if you do this, remember that a quilt is much bulkier and stiffer than muslin fabric. This may affect sizing. I suggest scouring local thrift and antique stores for old, worn-out quilts as an inexpensive way to test the pattern (and also repurpose an old treasure!). It will give a more realistic representation of the final product. The quilts used in these test coats were full of holes and threadbare patches. While well loved during their prime, it was clear that they would benefit from a second chance in garment form. I am so thankful I didn’t waste a quilt that took hours to sew on patterns that didn’t work.

The Perfect Quilt Coat: a review of modern quilt coat patterns

Pattern Test #1: NewLook 6585 by Simplicity (2 out of 5 stars)

This pattern looked like it fulfilled most of the “Ideal Quilt Coat” criteria. It has a relaxed fit, a hood, length options, and pockets. This quilt was found at a local antique store for $20, and it was appropriately priced for the amount of wear and holes. It took some creative fussy cutting to find enough sections that were suitable for a coat. Let’s start with the pros of the pattern.

Pros:

  • The pattern and instructions were easy to follow as an inexperienced garment sewist.
  • Inclusive sizing available
  • Length options

Like I said, in many ways this pattern appears to be a great option. However in practice, the result was… disappointing.

Cons:

  • It was enormous. As someone who is generally a “true to size" medium, it was shocking how wrong the dimensions were. Even after sizing down to begin with, the coat was laughably large. My husband graciously commented that I looked ready for my UFC debut. Not exactly the look I had hoped for.
  • Much longer than expected, even with using the medium length.
  • The dimensions were so distorted that, even if using the XS (which I NEVER wear), this coat still would have been gigantic.

Pattern Test #2: The Nova Coat by Papercut Patterns (4 out of 5 stars)

If you have spent any time researching coat patterns, it is likely this one has crossed your path. It seems to be one of the go-to’s in the modern coat world, so naturally it made the test list. It has a modern cut, large pockets, but no hood and the drape appears to be bulky. The quilt used was also found at a local antique store - this one was $60. It was in better shape than the previous quilt, although still threadbare in many areas. But the quilt design was so lovely, it would make a beautiful coat!

Pros:

  • Modern shape and aesthetic
  • Print at home pattern, with versatile sizing options
  • Includes options for sleeve length and coat length alterations.
  • Detailed instructions for amateur garment sewists
  • The final coat was lovely! The shape and drape were lovely, and the finished product looked like the coats pictured.

Cons:

  • The pattern is designed to use a lining and fusing, so it requires some adjustments when using a quilt instead of single-layered fabric.
  • The pockets appear large, but the inner lining is much smaller than expected. I ended up adding my own version, to create deep, roomy pockets.
  • The pattern sizing still tended large. After sizing down one size from my measurements (although another quilter recommend sizing down 2 sizes), I still ended up making pretty significant alterations to the coat.
  • The sleeves are very billowy. Obviously that is the goal of the pattern, so it’s not really a “con,” but I ended up taking a few inches off the width and adding a cuff to the length to get a shape I preferred.
  • Sleeve instructions used inset sleeve attachment (instead of flat seams), which is a more advanced technique for beginner garment makers.
  • The shape of the collar was not ideal. Some seem to like it, however without fusing it didn’t have the structure pictured and laid strangely.

Pattern Test #3: The Chiono Coat by Sewillow (5 out of 5 stars!)

This pattern was discovered almost by accident. Several other coat patterns had been recommended to include in this list, however they just weren’t quite what I was looking for. After searching Etsy, I stumbled upon this design by Hanri of Sewillow. It had the modern look, a causal but structured drape, length options, and sizable pockets. Upon reaching out to Hanri about sizing, she responded immediately to verify that the pattern was true to size. Furthermore, the quilt pattern Radiowaves seemed like the perfect compliment to the minimal design of this jacket. Guys… I was blown away by the finished product.

Pros:

  • Predictable sizing!! This seems obvious, but it was such relief to create a coat that fit as promised.
  • The cut of the coat is relaxed without being bulky.
  • Pattern was easy to follow.
  • The sleeves were pieced using flat seams instead of inset which is an easier technique for a beginner (like myself).
  • Options for length, pocket size and sleeve cuff
  • The cut accommodates a modern quilt pattern. Some coat patterns coordinate better with traditional quilts, but this one showcased a modern design with ease.
  • Includes an option to add ties to secure the coat around your waist
  • The sleeve structure provides space for movement in the shoulders. As someone who is constantly lifting kiddos, it is nice to have space in a coat to move freely.

Cons:

  • Templates do not include seam allowances. The reasoning is explained, but it is easy to miss if the directions are not read throughly and does require extra care when cutting your quilt.
  • No hood. (I’m beginning to give up on this dream)
  • I now dislike every other coat in my closet, because it isn’t this one.

Pattern Test #1: NewLook 6585 by Simplicity (2 out of 5 stars)

Basically, my biggest complaints all have to do with sizing. It really didn’t matter the other good qualities of the pattern, it was completely unwearable based on the size and shape, which was very disappointing. The pattern cover photo was promising, but misleading. After removing a significant amount of fabric, it was able to be salvaged; however it is safe to say this pattern will not be made again. A pattern that doesn’t reliably deliver the correct sizing is not a good pattern.

Pattern Test #2: The Nova Coat by Papercut Patterns (4 out of 5 stars)

Overall, the pattern produced a really lovely coat! It was roomy but still structured, and the modern shape makes it a great option for a contemporary quilt coat. The instructions were slightly more challenging to follow with adjustments needed to accommodate a quilt but still was doable for a novice garment maker. It runs large, although that does seem to be the goal of the coat. Personally, I would recommend sizing down at least one size. In conclusion, the final shape was just a little too bulky and not the style coat I was looking for, although I would still recommend the pattern as a great option for a quilted jacket.

Pattern Test #3: The Chiono Coat by Sewillow (5 out of 5 stars!)

This pattern was a breath of fresh air, and the way it blended with Radiowaves was truly a match made in heaven. The predictable fit was the biggest relief, but I also liked the well-structured fit, the length, and surprisingly even the collar. The pockets were made slightly larger, because you can’t go wrong with more pocket space. It is nerve-wracking to cut into a quilt that took hours of work to create, but the finished product is exactly what I had hoped for. I hope you guys like it as well, because I may never take it off.

Let me know if these reviews were helpful! Have you had similar or different experiences with these patterns? Any other patterns you would like me to review? Let me know in the comments. I hope to see your own versions of Radiowaves Coats - it really does make the the perfect quilted jacket!

Happy Quilting,

Casey of Wellspring Designs

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7 comments

I will be making the Chiono jacket from the Radiowaves quilt. For the quilt fabrics A, B, C and the background, can you tell me which is yellow, grey and white? I want to understand where the quilt colors will end up in the jacket. Thanks!

Stacey

Thanks so much for these reviews. This is on my to do list to sew this year. I have several old quilts that I want to use so great advice about making a sample ahead of others. #2 and 3 are new patterns from others I’ve seen so hopefully I can find them.

Debbie

The first coat, New Look, looks like it would fit me, which is a 2X-3X. I can understand that coats need to be a bit larger since you are going to wear it over clothes but that is ridiculous. I have made jackets before but have never tackled a coat. I may have to look for a quilt to buy and make one. Thanks for the reviews, it helps that I don’t have to do all the research.

Carol S Kauffman

AH! Thank you so much! I’ve put off making a coat for a while now. I’m just not a garment sewing person. I’ve tried, over the years, and am always more than sad with the results. My Mom use to make everything and she was so good at it, I just never measured up to her level. I want to try a coat…but didn’t have a clue where to start. I appreciate the time you put into this and I’m slowly talking myself into at least attempting this!

Kathy

Have you seen how House of Taiga does hers? She pieces panels for the back, sleeves, and fronts of her jackets. Another option to consider!

Sera

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